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The Great Gatsby

When it comes to unique selling points, The Gatsby restaurant and piano bar at Berkhamsted takes the prize.

By transforming the foyer and tea rooms of a former 1930’s cinema on the High Street and retaining some stunning original art deco features, owner Nick Pembroke has created something rather special here.

Not only is the place an elegant taste of a bygone era, the food is just as exquisite and the restaurant recently celebrated being awarded an AA Rosette for its excellent cuisine.

Nick is justifiably proud of his success: “I knew this place was special when I first visited, even though at the time it was an American themed restaurant and the art deco features were not really evident.”

The re-styling and transformation, above and beyond its former glory, took eight weeks-with The Gatsby finally opening its doors in November 2005. Nick’s plan was always to turn it into a fine dining venue: “There wasn’t really anywhere else in the area, and Berkhamsted is such a lively town that I felt something like this would do well.”

Happily that instinct was correct and The Gatsby is not only a popular meeting place and bar, it is attracting clients from miles around who appreciate the fine food on offer.

The restaurant serves an amazingly reasonably priced set menu for lunch and pre-cinema dining (just £12.95 for two courses and a glass of wine) but I dined from the à la carte menu, lovingly created by Head Chef Matthew Salt.

Matthew has worked at such famous restaurants as Knightsbridge’s Cadogan Hotel and celebrity-favourite L’Escargot, where he gained indispensable experience of a more modern and adventurous style at a Michelin level.

At The Gatsby he has forged his own style combining traditional French fine-dining with traditional and modern favourites.

We enjoyed starters of warm salad of Chiltern Hills pigeon, roast chestnut and quince and a leek and potato velouté with smoked haddock and chives. The salad was a picturesque treat of beautifully combining flavours and the pigeon, melt-in-the-mouth tender, the veloute creamy and seasoned to perfection.

Next for me was the perfectly cooked pavé of halibut with buttered spinach, and chive mousseline sauce glaze. Again, perfectly cooked and pretty as a picture. The sauce provided an explosion of flavours which I mopped up with the sliced new potatoes.

My companion tucked into pan-roasted duck breast with confit bubble and squeak and Savoy cabbage. The combining of the bubble mix with the tender duck flesh was inspired and the perfect treat for a cold winter’s day.

Check out The Gatsby at www.thegatsby.net or call 01442 870403 to book.

 

1 Warwick Road, Beaconsfield, Buckinghamshire HP9 2PE    tel: 01494 677362   fax: 01494 675385

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